SAG 1
Sagging Gate (the latch misses, the gate drags)
Symptoms: latch won't catch · gate drags on ground · gap widens at top
The most common gate failure in Kansas City. Caused by one of three things — a heaved hinge post (frost-pushed out of plumb), a worn hinge pin, or a racked gate frame with no cross-brace. The diagnostic matters: a heaved post is a 4-hour job to re-set in concrete; a worn hinge is a 30-minute bolt swap; a racked frame usually can't be saved and needs a welded replacement.
Diagnostic: Check post plumb first. If the post tilts, the issue is below ground. If the post is plumb, pull the hinge and inspect for pin wear. If both check out, the frame is racked.
Typical fix: Post re-set ($250–$500) · Hinge replacement ($100–$250) · Frame replacement with welded frame ($650+)
HARDWARE 2
Broken Hinge or Latch (the gate won't stay closed)
Symptoms: visible hinge rust · latch won't engage · gate swings open on its own
Gate hardware takes abuse. Zinc-plated or lower-tier hinges tend to rust out in 12–24 months in KC's freeze-thaw climate. Latches misalign as the gate settles. The good news: most hardware failures are isolated — one part, one replacement. We swap in galvanized, stainless, or powder-coated replacements rated for the gate weight, and align the latch to the new hardware position.
Diagnostic: Visual inspection of every hinge screw/bolt and the latch catch. Check hinge-pin wear, screw strip-out, latch plate alignment.
Typical fix: Hinge replacement ($100–$250 per pair) · Latch replacement ($60–$150) · Full hardware refresh ($275–$550)
MOTOR 3
Automatic Opener Failure (won't open, won't close, or runs erratically)
Symptoms: opener hums but doesn't move · gate stops mid-cycle · remote unresponsive
Automatic gate openers fail in four common ways: the motor burns out (usually under-spec'd for the gate weight), the limit switch goes out of adjustment (gate stops short or slams), the logic board fails (often after a lightning surge), or the battery backup dies and the operator runs on AC only. Every symptom has a specific test, and most don't require a full opener replacement.
Diagnostic: Full diagnostic: voltage at the motor, limit-switch reading, logic-board LED check, battery voltage, remote signal test. Typically 30–60 min on site.
Typical fix: Limit-switch adjustment ($75–$150) · Battery replacement ($150–$300) · Logic board ($300–$550) · Motor replacement ($900–$2,200)
ALIGNMENT 4
Gate Won't Close or Latch (alignment, settling, hardware drift)
Symptoms: gate closes but won't latch · drags on one side · opens freely but stops short
Alignment failures are often misdiagnosed as "the gate is broken" when the real issue is a quarter-inch of settling or drift. New concrete footings shift slightly in the first year. A gate that closes perfectly on install day can miss the catch by a tiny margin six months later. Most of these are 15-minute adjustments — move the latch plate, shim the hinge, tighten a screw. Not every gate problem needs new hardware.
Diagnostic: Measure gap at hinge side and latch side, check for ground drag, confirm post plumb, verify latch catch alignment.
Typical fix: Latch plate realignment ($60–$125) · Hinge shim/adjust ($75–$150) · Full post re-set if shift is structural ($250–$500)